10 Different Methods of Composting: Find Which is the Best for You

What thoughts come to your mind when you encounter the term “composting?”

In simple words, composting is the process of decomposing organic materials, such as food scraps, yard waste, and other plant-based materials, in a controlled environment. 

Composting has been around for a long time and has been recognized as an important tool for soil health. There are plenty of benefits of composting that you should know, but to get a full picture of compost piles, you need to learn the different types of composting. 

Perhaps, if you are new to composting and curious to know about different methods of composting other than traditional methods, this blog is for you. 

Well, the composting process is not just a pile of decomposing organic waste in the backyard or recycling facility. 

So, let’s dig into the different composting options available for you.

What are the Different Types of Composting Methods?

If you are thinking of starting a composting business, you need to understand the different types of composting methods that include backyard composting, vermicomposting, bokashi composting, and much more. So, let’s check them out. 

1. Backyard composting

Traditional backyard composting is a combination of open-air and in-ground waste compost. It’s further divided into, hot composting, and cold composting methods. This involves composting in an open pile, in a container, or underground. 

• Open-air composting is a pile of green and brown matter in your yard. More often it is a bay constructed by laying your hands on it easily by gathering organic material. If you have a compost bin, keep turning the waste for an efficiently finished compost. 

  It is generally known as hot composting when smaller quantities of waste are used to build up the same amount of heat. Wire cages are used with piping to hold water and fetch heat. This is used for hot water systems in sustainable situations. 

  Cold composting produces heat and therefore it is not technically cold. You can call it warm composting until you leave it to rot in the fridge. 

• In-ground composting is called direct compost which is simply digging in the ground to bury the food scraps. In-ground composting is also the oldest and most-effective method of composting but with limitations. However, it takes a long time to decompose if you do not chop every waste in the compost pile. 

  You can bury only fruits and vegetables or keep digging holes to add all sorts of garden critters. It produces worms and helps you nourish your garden soil. 

2. Vermicomposting 

Worm composting is placed in the pit by burying red worms, and field worms, with organic matter to break them into worm castings. Worm bins are easy to construct and to accommodate the pile of food scraps generated. 

Worms will consume almost anything in a typical compost pile, including plants, paper, and food scraps. Vermicomposting can be great for condo tenants or little workplaces that need to infer a portion of the advantages of fertilizing the soil and diminishing strong waste. 

• Climate or Seasonal Considerations: Worms are delicate to varieties in the environment. The worms are not good for their health in high temperatures or in direct sunlight. Vermicomposting works best at temperatures between 55 and 77 degrees Fahrenheit, so the bin should be shaded in hot, dry areas. 

  By vermicomposting inside, nonetheless, one can stay away from large numbers of issues that erupt in warm or cold environments. The primary duty is to ensure that the worms have enough food and the right conditions to remain alive and healthy.

• Requirements: Vermicomposting has a couple of essential necessities like worms, worm bedding (e.g., destroyed paper, cardboard), and a receptacle to contain the worms and natural matter. Preparing bedding, burying waste, and separating worms from their castings are all part of maintenance procedures.

• Results: One pound of mature worms can eat up to a portion of natural material every day. These worms typically produce harvestable castings, which can be used as potting soil, after three to four months. 

3. Aerated static pile composting method

In this type of composting the soil keeps air circulating through compost heaps without you expecting to turn it for quicker results with less effort.

An aerated pile system can be set up in a variety of ways, from the simple to the complex. The least demanding method for aiding keep a heap circulated air through is by beginning the heap with a layer of bulky own waste like corn cobs and branches. Airflow and drainage are improved by this bedding.

Then, as you add more materials, add egg carton fragments and substantial wood chips. These items create air pockets, allowing for additional aeration. Another tip is to fabricate your heap around wind current cylinders that reach out from the lower part of the heap to the top. 

4. In-vessel composting

The environmental conditions, such as temperature, moisture, and aeration, are controlled when organic materials are fed into a drum or concrete-lined trench equipment. For proper aeration, the process typically includes turning the material. However, the size and capacity vary among in-vessel composters.

Composting in a vessel can handle a lot of waste without taking up as much space as windrow composting. Additionally, it can handle any organic waste, including meat, animal manure, biosolids, and food scraps. 

This technique might be utilized in very chilly climates in the event that the hardware is protected or the handling happens inside.

Composting from organic waste can take as little as a few weeks. When the fertilizer emerges from the vessel, it actually requires a couple of additional weeks or months for the microbial movement to settle and the heap to cool.

5. Windrow composting

This method is best suitable for large-scale composting. It creates a huge amount of compost divided into rows of long piles(windrows). Aerated by turning the piles either manually or by machines and decomposed. Windrow composting is used in agriculture, municipal, and industrial areas to manage a huge volume of organic material for turning into green waste. 

There are several factors that play a crucial role in the windrow composting process:

• Carbon-to-nitrogen ratio (C: N ratio): Maintaining the appropriate C: N ratio (usually between 25:1 and 35:1) ensures a balanced decomposition process.
• Moisture content: Adequate moisture (typically 40-60%) is necessary for microbial activity and decomposition. Adjustments may be required depending on the moisture content of the feedstock.
• Particle size: Shredding or grinding organic materials can accelerate the composting process by increasing the surface area available for microbial activity.
• Oxygen availability: Sufficient oxygen is essential for aerobic decomposition. Proper turning or mixing of the windrow allows for oxygen replenishment.
• Temperature: Windrow composting generates heat as microorganisms break down organic matter. Monitoring and managing the temperature is vital to ensure optimal composting conditions.

6. Bokashi

Bokashi bins are an anaerobic composting system that uses essential microorganisms to break down food scraps in an air-tight container. It involves fermenting organic waste using a mix of beneficial microorganisms, typically in the form of bran or sawdust inoculated with effective microorganisms (EM). 

Bokashi composting is particularly well-suited for urban environments or situations where traditional composting methods may not be feasible due to space limitations or restrictions. 

The bokashi composting process typically follows the below steps:

Step 1: Collecting organic waste

Gather kitchen scraps, including fruit and vegetable peels, coffee grounds, tea leaves, and cooked food leftovers. Avoid adding meat, dairy, and oily products as they may disrupt the fermentation process.

Step 2: Layering with bokashi bran

Place a layer of organic waste in an airtight container, then sprinkle a thin layer of bokashi bran or sawdust inoculated with EM over the waste. Continue layering the waste and bran until the container is filled.

Step 3: Compressing and sealing

Press down the waste to remove any excess air and ensure a tight seal to create an anaerobic environment within the container.

Step 4: Fermentation period

Allow the waste to ferment for about two weeks to several weeks, depending on the specific instructions provided with the bokashi bran. During this period, the beneficial microorganisms ferment the organic waste, breaking it down and producing a liquid called bokashi juice.

Step 5: Bokashi juice management

Drain the bokashi juice periodically, as it can be diluted and used as a liquid fertilizer for plants.

Step 6: Final composting

After the fermentation period, the partially decomposed bokashi waste can be buried in the soil or added to a traditional compost pile to complete the composting process.

7. Pit and trench composting

Pit or trench composting is the simplest form of composting, as it is about filling a pit in the soil with material to cover it. The microorganisms decompose and transform into nutrients for plants. This prevents odor from spoiling the environment. 

One of the simplest ways to compost is to pit and trench. If you live in any weather condition, whether it is hot, dry, or water scarcity, pit composting is the only option. The most important thing to remember is the dig a hole deep enough to pit the materials inside. 

Trench composting is a popular method in the UK for preparing the ground for the runner beans of the following year. Additionally, compared to dry compost, it is more challenging to monitor the progress of the compost. Trench composting, in general, produces excellent results despite these drawbacks.

8. Fast composting method

Organic waste breaks down quickly when the temperature is high. So, basically, hot composting is the quickest. This method of composting relies on the optimal conditions for microorganisms to thrive and break down yard waste or compost heap quickly. 

Here are some rules of fast composting: 

• A large pile of compost up to 3 feet
• Correct moisture level up to 60%
• Balance the ratio of green and brown waste
• Use shredded materials as it provides more surface for bacteria 
• The composting method involves the timely turning off the waste

How to make a fast compost pile

After your compost materials have been shredded, combine them all into a single pile. Add moisture to the pile if it appears dry and mix thoroughly and evenly. Check out the measuring compost moisture area of the site if you are unsure of how moist your fast compost pile should be. Below is the process of how to make a compost pile for quick results. 

• As mentioned, the size of the pile should be 3 feet wide and high. If possible, you can also try to make your pile up to 5 feet for better results. 
• Place a piece of plastic over the pile to trap the heat produced by the pile. 
• With the right method of fast composting, the internal temperature should rise in 24 hours. 
• Dig and remove a small quantity of material that is warmer and darker than the outer edge of the pile. 
• Within 2 days, the compost should be ready to turn. This helps bacteria with plenty of air to survive.
• Frequent turning of the pile will soon look like finished compost. 
• After two weeks, as planned, the fast compost should be ready to use. 

Overall, this method offers efficient compost production, and weed control, nutrient-rich soil amendments, improved soil structure, and environmental benefits. 

9. Commercial composting

Industrial or commercial composting is different from backyard composting. This compost uses different materials and is made in long rows using sawdust, pine bark, ferrous sulfate, and ammonia. All mixed together makes this pile in the compost bin. 

It is usually turned every 3-4 days and takes a minimum of 6 weeks for finished compost. There is not much nutrient value in the waste used for this method. The cheaper commercial compost is a good filler for garden beds. 

You can also mix it with composted soil to fill the garden beds or pot plants. If you are buying compost it is best to buy a high-quality mix of waste materials. Small commercial companies produce better quality products, however, they are expensive. 

10. Tumbler composting method

An additional pest-proof option is a ball or tumbler made of compost. They also include the amusement of rolling the ball or bin.

Again, if you want your purchase to have less of an impact, look for heavy-duty recycled plastic. Purchase a second ball or look for a dual-batch tumbler with two compartments. You can fill one while the other is composting because of this.

Most of the time, compost tumblers and balls are too small to compost a lot of animal bedding or yard trimmings. However, if your objective is to recycle kitchen scraps, a compost ball or tumbler might be just what you need to get started.

Conclusion

There is nothing like right or wrong when it comes to preparing compost. But, you should choose the right method as per your needs and location. 

For example, during summers you may use the hot composting method, and if the location is cold, or during winter it is feasible to use plastic bag composting. 

If you have time to grow veggies your own in the backyard, composting becomes fun and is an added bonus. We hope now you must have an idea of which methods work best for you, so start experimenting today.